Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2014 | Hedi Slimane's grunge suited girl | PFW

His girl is definitely a party girl, with a hidden agenda on the side

I would have never believed that I would dedicate a blog to Hedi Slimane and his Saint Laurent, but I am.

The Spring/Summer 2014 collection was different, I saw a bit of Yves Saint Laurent in there especially in the suits. With Hedi at this point in time, his collections will never appeal to every woman but only the young, edgy and cool, hence Edie Campbell opening the show. This time there was a change, he put out many suits and obviously the little party dresses he loves. High voluminous one shouldered asymmetrical shapes, in metallic colours.

The suits were sharp, close to perfection and androgynous looks when he paired them up with slim ties and bow-ties. The dresses were inspired from the 80s, it was like looking at my mum’s closet when Carrie Bradshaw was in her teens. There was a black and white chequered blazer with leather lapels, which I absolutely want. 

The suits in the collection were as present as the dresses, tailored to perfection. You had them in black, leather and even a grey one, pants in cigarette shapes and tight at the bottom. It reminded me of the 1966 "Le Smoking" from Saint Laurent and the tuxedo. 

Only short body-con miniskirts, leather, skater dresses in different prints, golden colours, even lipstick lips and shiny leopard print material. Buttoned up shirts were very revealing in sheer material, oozing sex all the way. The hair was messy and the make-up was grungy, pale skin and dark eye liner all around the eye.

The bags were the same as the season before but they were smaller, square shape  with a long thick chain and a small little leather grenade bag with spikes in black leather. 

The shoes varied from pumps with short heels pointed with bows, studs and lace ups in leather, leopard print, snake skin and shiny latex. The jewellery was chunky, in gold and silver with diamonds. Collier necklaces and bangles, and even chain bracelets. His attention to detail was indisputable. 

 His girl is definitely a party girl, with a hidden agenda on the side whilst rock and LA are definitely inspiring him. The last suit that came out with the drop V-neck will have me waiting in line next season for it. 

 Overall the collection was one which will attract many buyers, and the fashionistas will want all of it, the stores will copy everything and the rich girls will definitely go straight to Saint Laurent to buy. 

THE COLLECTION

 We now got the idea of Hedi Slimane's offering of Saint Laurent and I am finally getting accustomed to it.

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2014 | Post Modern Dior by Raf Simons | PFW

Raf Simon's modern identity is coming out in a beautiful marriage with Dior

Is he post-modern? Definitely. The Antwerp designer has been since the beginning, even with Jil Sander, and be brought post modernity to Christian Dior for Spring/Summer 2014. Set in a floral colourful floral green house with wooden floors, this show was a graceful blossom in Paris, bright with a spirited strength.

Raf Simons put his mark, and its evident. He changed the bar jacket once again, he reconstructed it in his own way, made it modern and young. The colours he chose were not subtle; he created an infusion of bold, deep hues into floral prints and played with pleats and beautiful details at the back.
His woman was Alice in Raf's Dior wonderland. The construction he played with was feminine, cutting from the waist down, close to the hip, revealing a bit of skin, black blazers, cut-offs and mid riff baring tops. The coats where constructed and cut very linearly. Printed words - "Primrose Path", "Alice Garden"  and "Hyperrealness" on the pleated, painted effect dresses, his way of showing his inspiration and a multitude of other different visions. The shiny materials, delicate mermaid like details,  and the beautiful tailored cigarette pants were of sartorial excellence.

The new colours of the Lady Dior bag were a rainbow made in lizard and crocodile skin, and even a version which like the shoes, resembled the roots of a tree, growing and spreading.

Necklaces simalar to coral and jewellery fell down the necks of the models like branches, a very surrealist kind of collection. Rounds collars, emblems and badges gave the sense of  belongingness to a certain kind if race,  beautiful pointed heels, similar to the roots of a tree, simply elegant a beautiful. 
It was a complete rendezvous with the classic silhouettes, he literally redid the classic Dior shapes, and made them into Raf Simon's signature ones. In the end, when all the models came out for the final bow, he gave us a new collection of silver metallic jacquard dresses, and finally the bar suit, a Dior classic.

He said "I wanted to feel that you wouldn't know quite where these women were coming from and where they were going to, that they exist in a new place of change and possibility". He is taking his Alice into an unknown path for us, but he knows well where she is going.

A new savage tribal sophistication is what he created now; his identity is coming out in a beautiful marriage with Dior.

From Vogue UK " | He said "I wanted a sense this season of a particular type of woman, a distinct new tribe, sophisticated and savage at the same time."

THE COLLECTION

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Someday one of those bar suits and anything from Dior's collection will be mine. He is the epitome of modernity with his edgy classic undertone.

Photos from style.com