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Showing posts with label Tailoring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tailoring. Show all posts

Monday, 21 October 2013

Gagliardi | Autumn/Winter 2013 Menswear Collection | Sartorial Elegance

The Mediterranean man’s style infused with Savile Row finesse and the Italian Sartorial elegance, that’s Gagliardi for you, Malta’s very own international menswear brand
Gagliardi’s history starts in Malta in 1964. Since then the brand has come a long way, establishing itself as one of the leading and most sought after menswear brands in Malta and it is slowly leading its way into the European market, having shop in stores in major department stores in Europe.

For their latest collection, Autumn/Winter 2013, Gagliardi, chose to inspire themselves by the Italian ski resort Cortina. Their man, is a man who chooses his clothes well, makes sure he looks good every day, whether he is going to work, a casual evening out, or to watch sports with the boys. I see Gagliardi attracting the young ostentatious man, like the movie character “Alfie” played by Michael Caine and Jude Law, and the elegant career oriented gentleman, which reminds me of Humphrey Bogart in “Sabrina” wearing suits and bow ties as part of his daily attire, and luxurious velvet dinner jackets in the evening. It’s a classic timeless collection, which finds its roots in the tailoring masters of Savile Row and Italy.

This time round, the brand chose to keep some key pieces from previous collections, like the Gagliardi quilted jacket in Alcantra leather, whilst introducing new ones, which include the wax coated cotton washed jacket and the interesting introduction to cable knitwear, whilst making sure that comfort and style are well intact.
Its a collection which includes details such as elbow patches, patch pockets, and the new  colours of Bordeaux, purple, winter white, warm mustard, rusty orange, forest green, smoky grey and icy blue.

Denimjackets, and wool jackets, washed cord, polo shirts, checked shirts and knitwear. They introduced a combination of cotton and cashmere and a range of shirts for the casual man to the business man, in different colours, prints and patterns. Having also the “Non-Iron” shirt, aiming to attract the urban, busy and metropolitan man.

Tailored business suits have now become one of their carry on classic pieces, and this season lovely addition was the three-piece suit which styled with a tie-pin shirt collar, a bow-tie and a double cuff shirt, and my favourite printed velvet, paisley and silk party jackets will get you ready for any kind of black tie event.

Lastly, their accessories range includes beautiful printed pocket squares in silk and wool, classic, fashion and bow ties and signature Gagliardi cufflinks. The footwear is the right number of shoes which are essential in every man's wardrobe; black and brown Derbies, brogues, loafers and other models which come in a range of leather and even coloured suede.

THE COLLECTION
The Gagliardi showroom in Malta

They sent me 2 pocket squares, as a gift and we are coming up with an outfit post together, an intriguing fusion of men’s accessories for a very feminine fashion blogger.
Gagliardi is a menswear brand to watch, the prices are very affordable and the quality is very good. This Mediterranean brand with sartorial references to Britain and Italy is managing to build customers all over world, cultivating menswear elegance and style for every man. With an online shop, which ships worldwide, the brand is growing fast, and taking the brand everywhere.

Shop my favourite menswear brand Gagliardi from here


Sunday, 22 September 2013

Stella Jean Spring/Summer 2014 | Turbans, Prints and Métissage | MFW

A mix of cultures and Mr. Armani's pride | Stella Jean here to stay
The Roman born designer with Caribbean roots, definitely digged down very deep into many cultures for inspiration, as she describes it - trompe-l'oeil and Métissage. She showed a bold printed collection with turbans, 60's inspired dresses, a retro feel, her signature Wax & Stripes designs and impeccable tailoring. 
Wearing a "Grazie Mr. Armani" t-shirt, her first fashion show was held at the Giorgio Armani's theatre in Via Bergognone in Milan. A big hype was created around the show, even I got excited, and being on everyone’s mouth certainly put a bit of pressure on the designer but it all seemed effortless.

Armani has been of great support, especially for this one, but the designer is also part of a group of designers forming the ITC - a UN agency - The International Trade Centre's Ethical Fashion Initiative. This initiative had Stella Jean’s fabrics made and sourced from Burkina Faso. Ethnic as she calls but ”the word liberated from Western abuse and manipulators, to be returned to its authentic and far more egalitarian routes" – Stella Jean. 

The collection is a journey; a vacation, and it showed this as the styling was so meticulously detailed and every look was a collection in itself. She got inspired by the Italian Dolce Vita, Vespas, feminine silhouettes and that 60s vibe in Capri and St. Tropez. 
A kaleidoscope of colours, silk and prints, she made every look and garment stand out, using African & Caribbean impressions with European silhouettes as she explained. She blended and fused cultures together, and this is working well, as influential women like Franca Sozzani, have been seen wearing her designs everywhere. 
Voluminous dresses and skirts, blazers, trapeze jackets, pencil skirts, long coats, blazers inspired from the British culture, Breton stripes, fishtail hemlines, tunics, Capri pants, long skirts which one would definitely wear to a big event and a green skirt with zebras which caught my eye, was fantastic.  Pineapples and other fruits, the turbans and the men’s hats, jewellery and the list goes on, her models walked down with so much confidence. There is something for everyone, and every piece is particular.

 
 
 


She is the right designer for change, something so different from what we have seen that can cement her name into the fashion industry with the uniqueness that she possesses. 
Brilliant Stella Jean, I love your designs and hard work! 
Bella Romana, sei fantastica!

Laura

Photos from cameramoda.it and @stellajeanltd (instagram) 

Friday, 2 August 2013

Art Comes First | Pitti Uomo 84 | Florence | The DJ Project | Menswear

THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR | VINYLS AND THE FUTURE
Art Comes First, a group of creatives who I first saw at Pitti Uomo 83. They impressed me so much that I spent day after day visiting their stand and their stylish chess players who form part of the ACF creatives, then introducing "The Coal Project".

At Pitti Uomo 84 the ACF group, composed by founders Sam Lambert and Shakah Maidog with Matteo Gioli from Super Duper Hats iand Liam Maher from Denham, presented "The DJ Project", applying the DJ technique of mixing, vintage pieces, new fabrics, cutting, sewing and remaking all together, once again combing art and fashion, with the tradition of menswear design with processes of the future.
Their vision for this project is a hybrid, looking for inspiration from the music vinyl legends of the past with tailoring techniques of today.
This time round they had a room, sort of gallery and at the same time an installation with workshop, a sewing machine, tailors at work, hats, vinyls ... their outlet of inspiration. 
Upcoming menswear designer Edwige Pierre admiring the Rebel in Suit room
Their inspiration - Louis Armstrong
 Inspiration Board
Shaka Maidoh 
 Sam Lambert
Next up is launching their website, their Spring/Summer collection, globe trotting the world and who knows ... They are creative geniuses at work!

http://www.artcomesfirst.com/